Xingping Ancient Town

Xingping is an ancient riverside town on the Li River, about an hour from Yangshuo, with more than 1,700 years of history. Its cobbled lanes, weathered wooden shopfronts, and old courtyard houses sit beneath some of the most famous karst peaks in China. Most travelers come for one reason above all: this is where you find the exact view printed on the back of the 20-yuan banknote, but the sleepy town around it rewards anyone who lingers a while.

The 20-yuan-note view

A short walk south of the old town leads to Yellow Cloth Shoal, the bend in the Li River framed by karst peaks that appears on the 20-yuan note. It is free to reach, and many visitors photograph it while holding up the banknote to match the scene. Arrive close to sunrise for soft golden light, mist rising off the water, and far fewer people; spring and autumn give the clearest, calmest mornings. A short bamboo-raft ride from the waterfront lets you float right out among the peaks for an even closer look.

Exploring the old town

The town itself is compact and can be walked at a leisurely pace in about an hour. Wander the old street past tea houses, snack stalls, and the small Ming and Qing shopfronts, then step down to the waterfront where bamboo rafts and cruise boats come and go. Look out for the old opera stage and the centuries-old banyan trees along the river. Xingping feels noticeably quieter and more lived-in than Yangshuo's West Street, and that slower pace is a large part of its charm.

Getting there and practical tips

You can reach Xingping by local bus from Yangshuo, by car, or as the disembarkation point of a Li River cruise from Guilin. The old town and the banknote viewpoint are both free to enter. Plan to walk the last stretch to the viewpoint, and consider hiring a short bamboo raft to see the famous peaks, including the Nine Horses Fresco Hill, from the water. Bring cash for snacks and raft fares, wear comfortable shoes for the uneven stone lanes, and start early to beat both the heat and the midday tour groups that arrive off the cruise boats.

Beyond the viewpoint

Xingping has more to offer than a single photograph. From the waterfront you can look out toward Nine Horses Fresco Hill, a sheer cliff whose patterns are said to hide the shapes of nine horses; legend has it that the more you can pick out, the sharper your eye. The town has long been associated with cormorant fishing, and at dawn or dusk you may still see a fisherman pose with his birds on a bamboo raft, lanterns glowing, a scene that has become an icon of the Li River in its own right. The surrounding hills also hold quiet hiking trails, and the riverside path toward the viewpoint passes farm plots, water buffalo, and small shrines. Give yourself half a day rather than a rushed hour, and Xingping reveals itself as one of the most atmospheric corners of the whole Yangshuo region.

A note on timing

Midday is the busiest time in Xingping, when cruise boats from Guilin unload waves of day-trippers who walk the same lane and snap the same photo before turning back. Staying overnight changes the town completely: by late afternoon the buses thin out, and at dawn you can have the cobbled street and the river viewpoint almost to yourself. The town and its peaks have appeared in Chinese films, paintings, and postcards for generations, so even on a busy day it is easy to see why the scene was chosen for the national banknote.