Mu Palace (Mufu), Lijiang

The chieftains' palace of Lijiang

Mu Palace (Mufu) was the residence and government seat of the Mu family, the hereditary Naxi chieftains (tusi) who governed Lijiang for some 470 years through the Ming and Qing dynasties. Tucked against Lion Hill at the southwest edge of the Old Town, the sprawling complex is often called the "Forbidden City of the South" for its grand timber halls, gilded plaques and ceremonial layout — yet its decoration is distinctly Naxi, blending Han palace architecture with local Dongba motifs.

Much of the original was destroyed in the 1996 Lijiang earthquake and meticulously rebuilt and reopened in 1999, guided by historical records and a famous account left by the Ming traveller-geographer Xu Xiake. Today you walk a rising axis of more than a dozen restored buildings climbing the hillside.

Things to see and do

• Enter through the ornate gate and cross the Council Hall (Yishi Ting), where the chieftains held court.
• Climb past the Wanjuan Tower (a former library of thousands of scrolls) to the hilltop Sanqing Hall for the best view back over the Old Town's grey rooftops.
• Look for the fusion of Han, Tibetan and Naxi design in the painted beams and stone carving.

Opening hours & tickets

Mu Palace is generally open 08:30–18:00 daily. There is a separate admission ticket (around CNY 40–60) in addition to the Lijiang Old Town Maintenance Fee. Allow about 1–1.5 hours; English signage is limited, so an audio guide or guide adds a lot of context.

Getting there

The palace sits inside the Old Town, a few minutes' walk south of Sifang Street toward Lion Hill — simply follow signs through the lanes; there is no separate transport needed.

Best time to visit

Visit in the morning when the complex is quieter and the climb to Sanqing Hall is cooler, with clear light over the rooftops. Spring and autumn bring the most comfortable weather. The palace pairs naturally with a climb up neighbouring Lion Hill to Wangu Tower for an even higher panorama.