The Bund

No view sums up Shanghai quite like the one from the Bund. Along this 1.5 km waterfront promenade on the west bank of the Huangpu River, a stately row of early-20th-century banks, hotels and trading houses faces off across the water against the futuristic towers of Pudong. Old and new China, separated by a few hundred metres of river — it is the city's defining contrast and, unsurprisingly, its most photographed spot. Best of all, walking the Bund is completely free and open around the clock.

A waterfront of history

The name "Bund" comes from an Anglo-Indian word for an embankment, a reminder of the era when Shanghai was a treaty port carved into foreign concessions. The grand façades you see today — some 52 buildings in neoclassical, Gothic, Baroque and Art Deco styles — went up between the 1880s and 1930s, when this strip was the financial heart of East Asia. Landmarks to look for include the former Customs House with its clock tower (modelled on London's Big Ben) and the green-domed former HSBC Building next door. Together they have earned the Bund its nickname as a "museum of international architecture." Don't miss the Fairmont Peace Hotel, an Art Deco icon at the corner of East Nanjing Road whose old-jazz bar has been playing since the 1930s.

When to go

The Bund is wonderful at any hour, but two windows stand out. Come at dusk to watch the historic buildings, the Pudong skyline and the river all light up at once — the illuminations typically switch on around 6–7 pm and run until about 10–11 pm. Or arrive early morning, when the promenade belongs to tai-chi practitioners and joggers and you can photograph the skyline without the crowds. Evenings, especially weekends and holidays, get extremely busy, so allow extra time.

Things to do

• Stroll the promenade from Waibaidu Bridge in the north to around Yan'an East Road, taking in the façades on one side and the Pudong skyline on the other.
• Take a Huangpu River cruise. Evening sailings glide past the lit-up buildings on both banks; the roughly hour-long round trips are the classic way to see the lights.
• Cross to Pudong for the opposite view. The quirky Bund Sightseeing Tunnel runs under the river to the foot of the Oriental Pearl Tower, or you can take the metro one stop to Lujiazui.
• Climb for a rooftop view. Several historic buildings house bars and restaurants with terraces overlooking the water — a memorable, if pricier, way to take it all in.

One practical note: the Bund is a magnet for friendly-seeming "art students" or strangers inviting you to a teahouse or bar — a long-running tourist scam that ends in a wildly inflated bill. A polite "no thank you" and walking on is all it takes. Otherwise the area is very safe, even late at night.

The Bund sits in the heart of Shanghai and is easy to reach by metro (East Nanjing Road station is a short walk away), making it a natural anchor for a day exploring the city centre.