Terracotta Army

Discovered by farmers digging a well in 1974, the Terracotta Army is one of the greatest archaeological finds of the 20th century and the single most famous sight in Xi'an. Buried for more than 2,200 years to guard the tomb of Qin Shi Huang — China's first emperor — this silent clay army stretches across three excavation pits on the eastern edge of the city, in Lintong District about 40 km from the centre. What the diggers stumbled upon turned out to be the vanguard of an underground empire still only partly excavated today.

A short history

Qin Shi Huang unified China in 221 BC and, like many rulers of his age, began preparing for the afterlife the moment he took the throne. Ancient records say some 700,000 labourers worked on his vast mausoleum complex, of which the terracotta warriors are only the guardians. The figures were mass-produced from moulds but finished by hand, which is why each soldier ended up with a distinct face. Once arranged in formation and equipped with real bronze weapons, they were sealed underground — and largely forgotten until that chance discovery nearly two millennia later.

Why visit

No photograph quite prepares you for the scale. An estimated 8,000 life-sized soldiers, 130 chariots and 670 horses were sculpted to accompany the emperor into the afterlife, and remarkably no two faces are alike — each warrior has individual features, hairstyles and expressions, from young conscripts to grizzled generals. They were originally painted in bright colours, traces of which survive on freshly excavated figures. Walking the gallery above Pit 1, where corridors of infantry stand in eternal battle formation, is a genuinely humbling experience and the reason the site was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

The three pits

• Pit 1 is the largest and most spectacular — a hangar-sized hall holding the main infantry, row after row of warriors restored to their original positions. Stand at the front for the classic view down the marching columns.
• Pit 2 reveals the cavalry, archers and chariot units, plus several star exhibits displayed in glass cases at eye level — the best place to study individual faces, armour and hairstyles up close.
• Pit 3 is the smallest, interpreted as the army's command post. Don't miss the on-site Bronze Chariots exhibition hall, which displays two exquisite half-scale bronze carriages unearthed near the emperor's tomb mound — masterpieces of ancient metalwork.

Planning your visit

The site is large and involves a lot of walking, so arrive early — both to beat the tour-group crush and the midday heat in summer. The recommended order is Pit 1 last, so you finish on the most dramatic note; many guides actually start with Pits 3 and 2 to build up to it. A combined ticket also covers Lishan Garden (the emperor's actual burial mound, a short shuttle ride away), which most visitors skip but which adds valuable context. Hiring a licensed guide or renting an audio guide is well worth it: without explanation the pits can feel like rows of statues; with it, the story of how they were made, buried and rediscovered comes alive.

Allow at least half a day. The Terracotta Army pairs naturally with Xi'an's other Qin- and Tang-era sights and is reachable by public bus, organised tour or private car from the city in about an hour.