Xi'an

Xi'an City Wall

The Xi'an City Wall is the largest and best-preserved ancient city wall in China — a continuous rampart of grey brick that runs 13.74 kilometres in a complete rectangle around the old centre of Xi'an. Built in the early Ming dynasty in the 1370s on the foundations of the Tang-dynasty imperial city, it is wide enough at the top to drive a car along and high enough to give sweeping views over both the historic streets inside and the modern high-rises beyond. Walking, cycling or simply standing on top of a 650-year-old fortification is one of the defining experiences of any visit to Xi'an.

The massive grey rampart of the Xi'an City Wall beside the modern city

A complete circuit of history

Unlike the fragments that survive in most Chinese cities, Xi'an's wall is unbroken. Xi'an was Chang'an, the capital of thirteen dynasties and the eastern terminus of the Silk Road, and the present wall encloses the heart of that ancient city. Four great gates — Yongning (South), Anding (West), Anyuan (North) and Changle (East) — anchor the corners, each crowned with layered watchtowers, and the parapet is studded with defensive ramparts every few dozen metres. A deep moat and a ring of parkland follow the wall on the outside. The South Gate (Yongning) is the grandest and the main tourist entrance, often decorated with rows of red lanterns and the setting for ceremonial drum-and-gate performances that recreate the welcome once given to arriving dignitaries.

Visitors cycling along the wide brick top of the Xi'an City Wall

Cycling the wall

The classic way to experience the wall is by bike. Rental stations sit at the South, West, North and East gates and several points in between; a single bike costs about ¥45 for three hours and a tandem about ¥90, with a refundable deposit of around ¥100. A relaxed loop of the full 13.74 km takes one to two hours, leaving plenty of time for photos. If you prefer not to pedal, electric sightseeing carts circle the top, and you are also free to simply walk a section.

Tickets and hours

Entry costs ¥54 and the wall is open daily, roughly 08:00 to 22:00 at the main gates, so you can climb up by day for the views or after dark when the lanterns and gate towers are floodlit. Foreign visitors buy tickets with their passport, either online in advance or at the gate ticket office. Allow at least an hour or two; combine it easily with the Bell Tower, Drum Tower and Muslim Quarter, which all sit just inside the walls.

When to go

Early morning and the hour before sunset are the most comfortable and the most photogenic, with soft light on the brickwork and the city beyond. Summers in Xi'an are hot and there is almost no shade on the wall, so bring water, a hat and sun protection; spring and autumn are ideal. After nightfall the illuminated wall is spectacular and noticeably cooler — a fine way to end a day in the city.

Highlights

The largest and most complete ancient city wall in China, an unbroken 13.74-km rectangle
Built in the 1370s (early Ming dynasty) on Tang-dynasty imperial foundations
Wide enough on top to cycle the full circuit in one to two hours
Four grand gate towers, with the South (Yongning) Gate the lantern-lit main entrance
Day views over old streets and modern skyline; floodlit walls and towers after dark

Travel Tips

Tickets and entry

Entry is ¥54; foreign visitors buy with their passport, online in advance or at the gate office. The wall is open daily, roughly 08:00–22:00 at the main gates.

Renting a bike

Single bikes cost about ¥45 for three hours and tandems about ¥90, plus a refundable deposit of around ¥100. Overtime is charged in small increments, so finish your loop within the three hours.

Where to start

The South Gate (Yongning) is the grandest entrance and most central, steps from the Bell Tower; East, West and North gates also have access points and bike rentals.

Beat the heat

There is almost no shade on top, so bring water, a hat and sunscreen. Early morning, late afternoon and after dark are far more comfortable than midday in summer.